The Secrets of Alicante's Top Grill Master

Óscar Varela from Monóvar is an artist, a scientist, and above all, a great chef. These are essential qualities to be a master griller like him, capable of controlling the numerous variables needed to prepare a perfect chop: from the meat's doneness to the fire's temperature, the grill's height, or the type of charcoal or wood that best imbues the tissues. He demonstrates this daily at his restaurant MOA Brasas in Monóvar.

A phenomenon who has defended the honour of Alicante province as its sole representative in the fourth edition of the prestigious Grill Master Competition, one of the most anticipated events of the year for lovers of good meat and the cult of the steak, held this week in San Sebastián.

Óscar competed among 50 representatives from across Spain to place Alicante at the top. All chefs started with the same elements: charcoal, grill, salt, and a chop, the prestigious LURRA AA beef from Basque cows of Okelan. "The level was very high, everyone made a perfect chop and there were few differences," he says of his experience, which he will repeat next year, but as a judge.

The technique has made the difference. Óscar's is based on purity to highlight the meat: "I like pure flavours, not masking the product," Varela explains. To achieve this, the first step is to temper the meat, ensuring it is almost warm before placing it on the coals, between 20 and 23 degrees. "You can't put cold meat on the grill," he explains, because it won't achieve the outer crust and the three interior colours that signal good cooking.

After sealing the chop, salt is added on one side, and once done, it is cleaned and cooked on the other side in the same way. "Meat must be treated with care and attention," Óscar notes. The best grill is one that is adjustable.

This is the traditional way the Alicante chef treats chops. From there, his technique evolves. Varela triumphed in San Sebastián with the accompaniment: "We remove the chop's fat, dice half into tartare and mix it with some confit peppers," he explains. Here's a good idea.

Óscar Varela showcases his mastery daily at his restaurant MOA Brasas in Monóvar, where they work the grill "like haute cuisine," whether it be meats, fish, or burgers, another of his specialties. Matured meat with those confit peppers is a hit, among others, with 'Dining with Pablo'.

Because MOA is not a name chosen at random. It reflects the love that drives everything: Mari, his life partner; Óscar, who propels it; and Alma, his young daughter, who gives meaning to every step. It was with Mari that he travelled for months through every corner of the Valencian Community, tasting, observing, learning. They were searching for the perfect burger, yes, but also how to make it authentic, honest, and soulful, cooked over coals and with ingredients selected with care.