Peruvian Maido Seizes the Title of World's Best Restaurant from Asador Etxebarri

Maido, the Peruvian restaurant, has unexpectedly claimed the top spot as the world's best restaurant, surpassing Asador Etxebarri, which was a strong contender. The World's 50 Best Restaurants list, unveiled in Turin, Italy, defied expectations by not following the usual pattern of elevating the previous year's runner-up. This break in tradition likely stems from the recent victory of Barcelona's Disfrutar, last year's number one, paving the way for a rising star in Latin American cuisine. Such are the whims of a ranking system that can elevate or demote top contenders.

Bittor Arginzoniz, who has been a fixture in the 'top 10' for nearly a decade, deserved recognition for his impeccable career. Many believe Etxebarri should have won long ago, and the second-place finish in 2024 raised hopes that this would be its year. However, 50 Best has decided otherwise. Being the world's second-best once more is a significant achievement, yet it feels almost like an affront at this stage. As a consolation, the organization has named its sommelier, Mohammed Benabdallah, as the world's best.

The restaurant that claimed victory, located in Lima, is a leading example of Nikkei cuisine, blending Japanese immigrant traditions with Peruvian ingredients to create one of the world's most popular fusions. It has been on the list for over a decade and was third last year. Etxebarri still has a chance for a comeback next year; otherwise, it may follow the downward path of Arzak, Azurmendi, or Nerua, which once reached great heights but are now absent from the list.

Diverxo also failed to reclaim the Spanish triumph, though it remains firmly in fourth place. Dabiz Muñoz had announced an ambitious move to a new location on the outskirts of Madrid, promising to boost its international profile. However, those plans were canceled months ago, and the restaurant will continue to operate from its current spot in the Eurobuilding hotel. This may have created a sense of transience that limited its chances of climbing higher, but it is likely that a chef in his creative prime will gain momentum to bring great joy to Spanish cuisine in the coming years.

Elkano, located in the Basque town of Guetaria, is on the rise, known for its historic fish grill that has reinvented itself in recent years, crossing borders to become an international reference. Like Etxebarri, it offers a stripped-down cuisine and maintains an exemplary relationship with fishermen, initiated by patriarch Pedro Arregi and continued by his son Aitor. It once reached 16th on the list and had been experiencing slight declines in recent years, but this time it climbs from 28th to 24th.

The other major news from the gala is the entry of Albert Adrià, placing Enigma among the top 34 and winning the Estrella Damm Chef's Choice Award, acknowledging him as a favourite among his peers. After the traumatic closure of Tickets and other El Barri projects during the pandemic, Ferran's younger brother, responsible for many of El Bulli's bold creative exercises, reclaims his place at the forefront of global gastronomy. His Barcelona restaurant leaves no one indifferent, and many critics have advocated for distinctions that other guides have yet to grant him, making his triumph somewhat of a vindication.

Among the international highlights of the list is the overwhelming presence of Bangkok restaurants, establishing it as the culinary capital of the world with six entries and the highest new entry, Potong. Lima also has reasons to boast, hosting not only this year's winner and the previous one, Central, but also Kiolle (9), Mérito (26), and Mayta (39). The strongest rise is by London's Ikoyi. Other favourites, Paris's La Table by Bruno Berjus and New York's Atomix, at 8th and 12th respectively, will also have to wait. Will 2026 finally be Etxebarri's year?