Fresh Air at a Gastronomika Open to San Sebastián

This is the paradigmatic case of a city turned into a gastronomic ecosystem, a magnet for chefs, an incubator of great restaurants, and a destination for millions of gourmets from around the world. Donostia can boast many things, but one of the most important is its cuisine, as it was the first to coin a concept as popular today as gastronomic tourism. There are other examples of cities that have managed to create something similar: Copenhagen, Chicago, Lima, or Florence. All of them will gather at the next edition of Gastronomika Euskadi Basque Country - now in its 26th edition - which, under the title 'San Sebastián, Open City', aims to strengthen ties with the metropolis that makes it possible.

After a twenty-fifth anniversary marked by undeniable success, Gastronomika is entering a new phase with the ambition to remain relevant in an increasingly diverse and complex global scene. Alongside the change in congress leadership from Roser Torras to Benjamín Lana, there is also a profound renewal of the advisory council to incorporate the most influential voices in contemporary Basque cuisine. Andoni Luis Aduriz and Eneko Atxa remain, but new members include professionals such as Josean Alija, Edorta Lamo, Aitor Arregi, Paulo Airaudo, Roberto Ruiz, Aitor Zabala, London-based Bilbao native Nieves Barragán, and Elena Arzak, who replaces her father Juan Mari. Additionally, profiles from other disciplines like American journalist Lisa Aven or Toni Massanés, director of the Alicia Foundation, join the council. The 'popes' of New Basque Cuisine will continue to be linked to the congress from a founders' council including Arzak, Pedro Subijana, Martín Berasategui, Karlos Arguiñano, Hilario Arbelaitz, and Roser Torras.

Many of them will take the stage at Kursaal from October 7 to 9, acting as hosts for a lineup of national and international stars that prove Gastronomika remains an unmissable event. From Lima will come Virgilio Martínez and Pía León of Central, currently ranked number 1 on the 50 Best list. From Chicago will arrive Tim Flores and Genie Kwon, responsible for the first Filipino restaurant to earn a Michelin star and culinary advisors for the popular series The Bear. From Copenhagen comes one of the brightest stars on the Nordic scene, Korean-born chef Kristian Baumann of two-star Koan. Also making his debut as an international speaker is Fabien Ferré, considered the great white hope of French cuisine after receiving three stars at once in the latest Michelin gala in France.

The national lineup will be led by Joan Roca - number 1 in the world in 2013 and 2015 - and Barcelona's Disfrutar, currently number 2 and likely champions next year. Also present in Donosti will be three-star Cordoban chef Paco Morales with his lieutenant Paola Gualandi; Jaen native Pedrito Sánchez from Bagá; Toledo's Iván Cerdeño; Zamora's Luis Alberto Lera, a spearhead of high rural cuisine; as well as some of the most influential talents on Spain's new culinary scene like Jorge Muñoz and Sara Peral from Madrid's OSA, Revelation Chefs at last year's Madrid Fusión.

Portugal will be featured as a guest country with several representatives presenting at Kursaal: José Avillez, Rodrigo Castelo, João Rodrigues, Marlene Vieira, Ana Moura, and João Oliveira. Additionally, two other Portuguese chefs - Diego Rocha and Noélia Jerónimo - will compete against their Basque colleagues in a cod recipe duel at Gaztelubide gastronomic society. One goal of this new orientation for Gastronomika is to extend beyond the congress palace and include bars, taverns, markets, and societies in its program.

Another major attraction of the congress are its competitions. In addition to classic contests for grill masters, Russian salad or olive oil cooking, this edition will feature Pedro Martino's traditional World Tripe Championship and the first Fish Soup contest. Over the three days of the congress awards will be given to figures like Pedro Subijana who receives the Tribute Award; winemaker Mariano García awarded with the Golden Gueridón; and journalist Lisa Aven receiving the Pau Albornà i Torras award for gastronomic journalism.

Gastronomy is much more than fine dining restaurants and Gastronomika 2024 aims to reflect this by celebrating the first edition of the Forum of Taverns and Tavern Keepers which will bring together representatives from some of Spain's most iconic establishments: from Donostia's Aratz or Urola to Madrid's Hermanos Vinagre or El Fogón de Trifón; Murcia's Bar Verónicas; Cádiz's El Faro; Granada's Bar FM; Alicante's Piripi; or Valladolid's Astrolabio among others. Alongside other professionals who have embraced tavern culture like Ricard Camarena, Sacha Hormaechea, Gorka Txapartegui or Juanjo López they will reflect on the sector’s situation at a time when some large groups aim to appropriate their discourse and identity.