"I've Done My Best Because No One Taught Me"

Vicente Castelló embodies the American 'self-made man' ideal. From a small 30-square-metre venue in Alicante's Plaza de España, he has built two of the city's most renowned restaurants: Piripi and, notably, Nou Manolín, considered the best bar in the world. Honoured with the National Gastronomy Award and the Gold Medal for Work, among other accolades, he reflects in this interview on the 70 years of gastronomy he has experienced.

"Your career is legendary, starting from that Manolín near the bullring and the famous squid sandwiches..."

"Indeed, the squid was famous. They were served in a cone without bread. The squid sandwich, typically with mayonnaise, was separate from the cones. That venue was very small, about 60 square metres. It opened in 1972. How long has it been? 53 years."

"How did you transition from that Manolín to the Gastronou Group, with three establishments?"

"It didn't happen overnight; it took years, gradually. We've always had something very positive, which is the warmth of the public. I never settled for just filling up on Saturdays and Sundays. We had to strive to have customers throughout the week."

"Not only have you and your business grown, but your family has also grown around the restaurant."

"I started alone. My wife married me later. We dated for 12 or 14 years because we were broke. We didn't have a penny. We had to wait to have a moderate income to sustain ourselves and get a flat. Now, besides my children (Silvia and José Juan), I have my grandchildren. And it's very important that they feel comfortable. I always say the same: they have to be comfortable because this is very, very demanding. The busier it is, the more chaos there is, and the team must always be ready. It's important for people to know that Nou Manolín is open, and Piripi too. We've never closed for holidays or any other reason. We've always been open."

"So, it's not just business; it's also a vocation for service, always wanting to offer the best."

"Yes. Moreover, there's one thing I'm very clear about: I love my profession. I'm a very fortunate man. Well, when I was working (laughs). And to this day. Now I'm more for parties than work. And since my children manage it well... But I've always woken up thinking about Nou Manolín. Always."

"And when you walk through the hall and see all the people who come, what do you feel?"

"I don't understand it; I don't understand it. I always say the same: it could happen that no one comes on a certain day, or another day it's packed, and there aren't enough tables. It's unpredictable."

"It's not the same people. Initially, they came from Alicante's neighbourhoods, then from all over Spain, and now from all over the world."

"We're doing well because we've lost some local clients but gained others from outside. Having a national reputation supports us a lot. A great chef, Joël Robuchon, considered the best chef in the world, discovered Nou Manolín, and every time he came to Alicante, he ordered seafood and more. With his support, we've gained worldwide recognition."

"It's curious, but it took someone from outside to elevate me to a status that locals hadn't. I've told more than one person: 'You've been coming to my place for years, and now because Robuchon said so, suddenly I'm handsome and tall.'"

"Because everything that has come your way isn't because you haven't sought it; you've dedicated yourself to working."

"I've done my best because no one taught me. I didn't learn anywhere. As a customer, I've learned in Madrid, in Barcelona. I've copied a lot by observing, but the product, the raw material, is very important. That never fails."

"Good advice for those starting out..."

"For new establishments, just as you create beautiful, aesthetic things, each with their own taste, it's important to save money so that the rubbish bin works."

"How so?"

"Let's see. The prawns must be fresh daily. On a slow day, there might be some leftover prawns. Well. But if possible, all should be new the next day. And the rest can go to waste to ensure everything is perfect. Because, with the years I've been doing this, I'm convinced that people value the raw material."

"Nou Manolín hasn't succumbed to trends over the years."

"No, no. Of high quality. I'm into popular cuisine. That's what makes us happiest, right? And, moreover, most people are delighted with the red prawns, the shrimp, the rice with red mullet..."

"There can't be an Alicante restaurant without rice..."

"Rice is the base. But, you see, when the restaurant opened, we didn't have rice dishes because until I made a kitchen for rice, we didn't serve them. For rice, you need several burners because maybe four tables order four at once, so you have to make them. And if someone comes and orders rice, well, five, of course."

"What are you most proud of?"

"I have enormous gratitude to the customers. Without them, this would be impossible. Because right now, we have over a hundred employees. And I'm not counting my family."

"Are you recognised in Alicante? Do you feel appreciated?"

"Yes, yes. It's satisfying to know that we're here and that we have the respect of our fellow travellers, the other restaurants."